Two of Madrid's oldest neighbourhoods, and arguably its best for food, markets and a genuinely local atmosphere.
Steep, narrow medieval streets built on Madrid's original Moorish-era layout, centred on Calle de la Cava Baja — one of the highest concentrations of tapas bars anywhere in the city. Sunday is the neighbourhood's signature day: El Rastro, Madrid's biggest flea market, sprawls through the streets each week, followed by a long afternoon of vermouth and tapas as the market winds down.
Just south of La Latina, Lavapiés is Madrid's most multicultural neighbourhood — waves of immigration over decades have made it the city's best spot for food beyond Spanish cuisine, alongside a strong independent arts and activist scene. It's grittier and less polished than most central areas, and some streets can feel a little rough after dark, but it's genuinely interesting rather than unsafe.
Food-focused travellers and anyone who wants a local, unpolished feel over central convenience. Good value relative to Sol or Salamanca, with the centre still an easy walk away.
Go to El Rastro early (it starts around 9am and winds down by early afternoon) to beat both the crowds and the midday heat in summer.
La Latina and Lavapiés Metro stations sit right in the neighbourhoods; Sol and Plaza Mayor are a 10–15 minute walk north.